Its own name really defines it, and it is nothing more than the act of clicking on any of its buttons and registering a double tap Instead of one, that is, we click once and two clicks are registered, the second being involuntary by the user.
This in Windows is not too annoying if it is not constant, but in gaming it is inadmissible 100%, so the sufferer ends up deranged and with a bad concept of the model or brand of the mouse. But many times the problem is not physical, that is, it is not hardware, but can be software, so it is convenient to see the possible solutions to the problem before sending the mouse to RMA or failing that, having to change the switch or buy a new model.
Dirt
It is, although it may not seem like it, more common than it seems, especially in the mouse wheel and its vertical click. Dirt, dust, even hair stick to any surface and enter through the smallest and most inhospitable gaps.
Mouse clicks are no exception and we may have dirt between its spring and the switch, for example, from having touched the mouse with dirty hands or some liquid. The solution to this problem is somewhat complicated, since it requires completely disassembling the mouse and cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs, emphasizing the previously mentioned parts.
A spray with compressed air will also help, but not with the mouse closed, but open, to extract dust from the most difficult and inaccessible places. In any case, when cleaning, do not touch the sensor of it if you do not see it dirty or stained due to the spillage of some liquid, and it is very common to clean it since we are cleaning the switches and internal clicks.
If it is Wireless, it may be interference
It is another of the great problems, also with an easy solution but not to everyone’s taste. If we are in a community with a large number of Wi-Fi networks, we are surrounded by TVs or monitors or radio waves everywhere and with stations nearby, it is possible that the radio frequency of the mouse suffers problems, be it due to RF or Bluetooth.
The best solution, if possible and the mouse allows it, is to connect it by cable and check whether or not the double click occurs. If it does so then we will move on to another point, but if it does not then we will have to eliminate as far as possible interference from nearby devices and not leave anything between the receiver and the aforementioned mouse, avoiding millisecond cuts in it.
Software can be the cause
Most competitive gaming mice can be adjusted in their click times, thereby modifying the response time of each keystroke. It is true that this parameter is very personal and that very few can do it, but in those that their software allows it and is badly configured for both higher and lower speed, it can give us a false double click that is nothing more than that, a bad time adjusted response.
It will be enough to enter the mouse configuration in the software of yore and modify this value adjusting it to our liking, but on the other hand, there are also more software problems, specifically in Windows.
If we enter the Windows control panel -> mouse -> buttons tab, we will have a section called double click speed as shown in the image. Adjusting the scroll bar modifies the behavior of the scroll bar and can lead to the problem.
We will simply have to adjust it to taste until we stop suffering the dreaded double click. If nothing we’ve said so far works for you, then let’s move on to bigger words.
Hardware issues on double click
Here we enter a multi-actor stage. The mouse may be failing by itself, the switch may have said enough or it no longer responds as it should and needs to be changed (desoldering on low and mid-range mice, changing internally on high-end mice), but also there is a case of a motherboard problem with USBs and mice.
Many times we move the mouse and hear a more or less high-pitched buzz on the PC in time with the movement, where it stops when the mouse is still. This is produced by the capacitors in charge of the printed circuit and the USB controller of the board that does not go directly to the CPU.
Typically, these capacitors are considered “hit” and may soon be sunk, solid or not. They can also be the coils that accompany them, but there is no doubt that they are interfering with the USB where the mouse is connected, so the solution is to simply change it to a USB 2.0 that connects to the CPU. The manual of our plate must specify it in case we have doubts.
If doing this does not solve it, then we have to start thinking about a problem with the tension spring of the mouse, click or switch, namely that it can be a calculation of the two inclusive.
