The rarity scale in the Pokémon TCG is printed on each unit, on the bottom of the card And it is measured as follows:
- Common Rarity (Common Rarity) – Black Circle
- Uncommon Rarity (Uncommon Rarity) – Black Diamond
- Rare Rarity (Rare Rarity) – Black Star
- Promotion Cards (Promo Rarity) – Word ‘Promo’ + Black Star.
Holographic Cards
The holographic cards they have a gloss finish, and there are two types:
- Reverse Holo: You will always find one of these cards in each pack. All the card will be shiny except the Pokémon.
- Rare Holo: The print is identical to normal, but the Pokémon will be printed brightly. These cards are hard to come by, and are worth much more than normal cards or Reverse Holo.
Other valuable cards and editions
- ultra-rare: they have printed the most difficult Pokémon to capture, and they are difficult units to get. You will have to buy dozens of envelopes to get one of these cards, which can have the art along the entire surface of the print, or in half. These cards are currently available in the EX/GX/V series.
- full-art: They are a variant of the EX/GX series with the art of the Pokémon completely filling the card. The text becomes difficult to read, but the units are valuable due to their scarcity.
- Secret Rare: All cards have a number at the bottom. Secret Rares exceed that number, and have a different look, such as containing a Shiny Pokémon. Within this category are also the Rainbow Rare cards, one of the most recent that have been added to the collectible.
Steps to know what a Pokémon card is worth
Step 1: When was the card made?
In the print last line on the face of the card, you can see the Manufacturing date of the product. This data is one of the most important when it comes to differentiating valuable products from other more common ones that are worth practically nothing.
Step 2: Discover the set
If your letter does not have any type of logo on the right, is considered to be a base card. In other words, it’s from the heap. The rest of the cards usually have a indicator. If your card has a logo, all you have to do is find out which series the symbol belongs to.
Step 3: Identify your letter
Once you get the two previous data, you will have all the necessary data to check how much money they are being exchanged for in the second-hand market. go to eBay and enter the name of the Pokémon next to the data you have obtained in steps 1 and 2.
There you can see the number of units that is for sale, whether or not there are bids for the product and the approximate average price to which the exchanges end up being made.
How much are First Generation cards worth?
Of all the possible collections, the cards 1st Edition Base Set of the 90’s They are some of the most coveted. They get to reach a lot of money, but only if they are well cared for. If during your childhood you played cards, you will really be able to ask for very little money for them. The most valuable operations are carried out by letters in status 9/10 and 10/10 on the PSA scale.
starter pokemon
The trio of Pokémon offered by Professor Oak at the beginning of Red’s adventure, along with Pikachu, in Ash’s case, is one of the most valuable within this set. Bulbasaur 1st Edition is traded between $450 and $3,200. Charmander, much more popular, but somewhat more common, ranges between thes 330 and the 1,200 dollars. Squirtle is traded at exactly the same prices as its Fire-type partner, while the card Pikachu Red Cheeks (Red Cheek Pikachu) can reach $3,300. The edition Pikachu Yellow Cheeks has lower prices $350 and $1,500.
Starter Pokémon – Third Evolution
blastoise
If you were lucky enough to get a fantastic Blastoise Holo 1st Edition, you can shake it off for more than $4,000. The record for a MINT 10/10 card is held by one sale per $31,334.
Venusaur
Did someone choose Bulbasaur? Really? In the case of Pokémon cards, you didn’t pick them, they got you. Venusaur is the least valuable of this trident, although its price is not low either. Depending on your status, the version Holo 1st Edition retails for between nearly $4,000 and $20,000.
Charizard
A Holo version in state 9/10 can be easily sold for $30,000. But nevertheless, if you have a version with a printing error in the leftovers and a status 10/10, you have won the lottery, since your card is worth $400,000, as estimated by the entities that are dedicated to appraising Pokémon TCG products. This is the famous card that has the Rubius, said by the way.
Legendaries and other cards
- not even the almighty Mewtwo exceeds Charizard’s value. Mew clone ok between $2,300 and $13,000 in its 1st Edition Holo version.
- Chansey, a rare Pokémon in the original games, was also rare on the cards. A 10/10 Holo unit can reach $27,000.
- On the other hand, third evolutions What Machamp can reach the $7,500 on the second hand market.
Pokémon TCG: speculation or investment?
There are not few youtubers that have been launched buy pokemon cards by way of investment. Although some have fared better than others (yes, Logan Paul, that’s for you), the Pokémon TCG is getting multiple doses of free advertising.
However, it would not be the first time that such a perfect speculative market has collapsed like a house of cards — forgive the redundancy — so if you want to invest in this business do it only with the money you are willing to lose. Nothing and no one is going to guarantee that the prices we are seeing recently in the market will be maintained.
However, in the world of collecting Pokémon cards, particularly when it comes to Japanese editions, knowing how to tell if Japanese Pokemon cards are fake or genuine is essential. By educating yourself on these telltale signs, you can ensure that your collection remains a treasure trove of authentic Pokémon cards.
Yes you are on the opposite side and you are thinking of selling, be careful. Always use a platform that protects you as a seller. If the product you are going to offer has great value, try putting yourself in the hands of a professional. It will cost you a commission, but you will ensure that the transaction takes place safely, and without the risk of losing both the letter and the money.
